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"...Out
of the Ordinary"
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September 06 – 22, 2008
Arrive in Rapid City, South Dakota
Depart from Missoula, Montana
National Parks and Native Heritage of the Rocky Mountain States
People and Places, Past and Present in the Black Hills and the Northern Rockies
Hosted by Suzanne and Jack Price of Heritage and Gardens International - Queenscliff, Victoria, Australia
Take me back to the Black Hills;
The Black Hills of Dakota.
The beautiful Indian country
That I love.
Lost my heart in the Black Hills,
The Black Hills of Dakota.
Where the pines are so high that they kiss
The sky above.
And when I get that lonesome feelin’
And I’m miles away from home.
I hear the voice of the mystic mountains
Calling me back home.
So take me back to the Black Hills;
The Black Hills of Dakota.
To the beautiful Indian country
That I love.
Paul Francis Webster, 1907 - 1984
Day One - Saturday, September 06, 2008
Flying into Rapid City, South Dakota. Rocky Mountain Time is 16 hours behind Australia time (when it is 11pm Wednesday Night here, it is 3pm Thursday afternoon in Australia, Victoria). With that in mind, your flights should be arranged to arrive in Rapid City on Sept 06 in the early afternoon so you will have the rest of the day to recover from your trip. We will meet you at the airport (at the Baggage Claim if possible) and transport you to the Historic Alex Johnson Hotel located in beautiful downtown Rapid City.
Day Two - Sunday, September 07, 2008
After breakfast, our journey begins to the Northern Black Hills! But first, let's head just a little south and pick up our step-on guide in Mystic Russel Frink. There is not much to Mystic these days, but Russel brings it alive with his wit and knowledge of the areas past and present. His discussion will revolve around gold, and the early days of the area. Thoroughly enjoyable. We might even get a chance to see his gold mine if the weather cooperates. There is a steep incline to the mine, so be sure to bring a good pair of walking shoes with you if you want to see this. Then, it's off to Historic Deadwood, a National Historic Landmark, and we will be joined by Mr David Soma, a Living History Reenactor and Tour Guide. Guess who Mr Soma resembles? That's right! Wild Bill Hickok. Learn about the early days of Deadwood, see the original spot where Wild Bill was fatally shot (the original Saloon No 10 has burned to the ground - twice if we remember correctly), and Boot Hill (Mt Moriah). On the 45 minute drive to Spearfish we will first stop briefly at Tatanka - Story of the Bison and in Spearfish we will visit the Dick Termes Termesphere Gallery. Our trip back to Rapid City will be through breath-taking Spearfish Canyon, one of, if not, the, lovliest drives in the State. Our Dinner will be taken in the Canyon or back in Rapid City, however the group is feeling, and depending on the time.
Night Stop - The Alex Johnson Hotel - Rapid City, SD
Todays web links:
Day Three - Monday, September 08, 2008
Today will be so exciting! We are going to start off by heading South and into the heart of the Black Hills. There are two attractions that we are going to pass by that perhaps we can stop at this afternoon on the way back, or perhaps in the evening some of you would like to return to them. They are The Reptile Gardens and Bear Country USA. But first we are going to Mount Rushmore, America's 'Shrine of Democracy' via Needles Highway and The Wildlife Loop Road. If we dont see the Buffalo up close enough for you in our vehicle, do not despair, as we will also take a Buffalo Jeep Safari! Then, with spectacular scenery, a few surprises, and more of the famous 'pig-tail' bridges, you will be in the right 'frame' (you will get our reference to 'frame' as we are driving) of mind to visit Mount Rushmore. Two giant sculptures in one day! Crazy Horse Memorial is next and honors the tradition of the North American Indians. There is a ride to the TOP of the carving that is included in the tour price. This is really something! We might tell you just how large Crazy Horse Memorial is, but that might take away from the anticipation.
Since we will be in the heart of the Hills, now is a good time to be joined by someone that knows the Flora and Fauna of the Black Hills (do you know why they are called the 'Black Hills'?). And we will do just that, and more than likely he or she will be with us from Hill City until after we leave Mt Rushmore but before we go to Crazy Horse. The Buffalo Jeep Safari will allow us a grand opportunity for discovering the plant varieties native to the area. There is a night time lighting ceremony at approx 8pm at Mt Rushmore that is a patriotic tribute of sorts to our country. It is worthwhile seeing, even if you are not a citizen of the USA, and if anyone has interest, we will, of course, oblige you at no extra cost. It would entail driving again from Rapid City and would involve about 3 hours.
Night Stop - The Alex Johnson Hotel - Rapid City, SD
Todays web links:
Day Four - Tuesday, September 09, 2008
It's about an hour drive from Rapid City to Wall Drug, America's roadstop made famous for offering free water to weary travelers during the Great Depression. Have you seen a Wall Drug store sign where you live? Literally, they are all around the world (see:
http://www.walldrug.com/signs.htm). Before we stop there, we will do the entire Badlands Loop. That will mean driving 1/2 of it twice, as it is a loop, but thats ok. The scenery is mostly what we are after here, and we will have some time to stop for pictures and viewing. A look at a few fossils, and stop at the Ben Reifel Visitor Center. The Badlands are the world's richest source for certain fossils, and its landscape is 'lunar-like'. As this is also a very large 'mixed-grass' prairie, we will have a step-on guide with us for about one-half day to highlight the Badlands grasses and plants. When we arrive at Wall Drug you can roam around for about one hour and have lunch - don't forget your free glass of ice water! When we depart Wall, we will head to the Kyle, SD on the Pine Ridge Indian Reservation to pick up our step-on guide for the afternoon, Joe Whiting. Joe is 1/4 Native American and will tour Wounded Knee with us and we will also learn about Native American historical uses of the local plant life. It's about 1.5 hours back to Rapid City from Kyle.
Night Stop - The Alex Johnson Hotel - Rapid City, SD
Todays web links:
Wounded Knee (There is a Wounded Knee Museum at Wall as well)
Day Five - Wednesday, September 10, 2008
Rapid City-depart
On our way to Wyoming we will first stop at the Geographical Center of the USA (including Alaska and Hawaii) near Belle Fourche, South Dakota. Lebanon, Kansas is the Conterminous (excluding Alaska and Hawaii) center of the USA. From here we go to Devils Tower - America's first National Monument (1906): Devils Tower. A sacred site to many Native Americans and actually still part of the Black Hills National Forest. Mato Tipila is the Lakota Indian name for Devils Tower and is translated into The Lodge of the Bear. From here it is on to our Night Stop. We should reach our night stop in mid afternoon.
Night Stop, Buffalo, Wyoming - Occidental Hotel Occidental Hotel
Day Six - Thursday, September 11, 2008
Buffalo-Gary Anderson, Step-On Guide - Johnson County Cattle War
Insight into the infamous range war complete with the deadly intentions, greed, and ramifications that dramatically changed the West! Most people do not realize that of the twenty or so large ranches operating in the late 1800's in Northeast Wyoming, about two-thirds of cattle barons were from England, Scotland, or Germany. Rustlers, encroaching sheep herds, and over grazing led to a showdown that eventually needed the involvement of the US Government to settle.
Night Stop, Buffalo, Wyoming - Occidental Hotel
Day Seven - Friday, September 12, 2008
Buffalo-Historic Places, Forts & Calvalry Battles, Bozeman Trail
Look for a day at the storied past of famous battle sites, outlaw hideouts, and old trails.
Also, a
County Naturalist Agent, or a retired
Forest Supervisor to show us the local floral and
fauna. Wyoming has more than 2,000 species of ferns, conifers,
and flowering plants. Prairie grasses dominate the eastern third of the
state; desert shrubs, primarily sagebrush, cover the Great Basin in the
west. Rocky Mountain forests consist largely of pine, spruce, and fir.
The mountain meadows of the high Rockies are world famous for their
stunning wildflowers.
A visitor may have to spend more than a vacation here to fully
appreciate this colorful spectacle – the pasqueflower
carpets in the foothills; the larkspur,
penstemons, and blue flag on the prairie; the
sunbursts of rabbitbrush in the fall sage; or the
striking red of the state flower, the Indian
Paintbrush, and many, many, more.
Few places in North America can claim a greater variety of wild blossoms
than Wyoming because few places can claim a greater variety in landform,
weather and soils. Wyoming has rolling prairies, steppes, deserts,
evergreen forests and alpine tundra. Wyoming's plants haven't even been
adequately catalogued yet, although three or four generations of
botanists have struggled with the task.
More than 600 species of animals are found in Wyoming which can be attributed to it's diverse landscapes. Pronghorn Antelope abound, and we will have chances to see elk, moose, bear, bald eagles, golden eagles, bighorn sheep, and much more as we travel from east to west.
I hope we can see some of the original Bozeman Trail wagon ruts during our stay in Buffalo!
Night Stop, Buffalo, Wyoming - Occidental Hotel
Day Eight - Saturday, September 13, 2008
Buffalo-Battle of Little Big Horn, Calvalry-Native American Battles and Battle Sites.
Little Big Horn proved to be the pinnacle of the Native American resistance, as within a few years, all of the Indians will have been defeated and relegated to reservation life. Sitting Bull and Crazy Horse led their people in what ironically, their Last Stand as well. A unique perspective one of the greatest military disasters in US history. Time allowing, will also visit a few other battle sites, such as: Dull Knife Battle Site, Fetterman, and the Battle of the Rosebud.
Night Stop, Buffalo, Wyoming - Occidental Hotel
Day Nine - Sunday, September 14, 2008
Buffalo-Depart
via The Powder River Pass of the Big Horn National Forest.
At 9,666 feet above sea level, this is the highest point on Highway 16 in the Bighorn National Forest. This is also called Cloud Peak Skyway. (The highest point in Wyoming is Gannett Peak (13,804) in the Wind River Range south of Yellowstone). Because of the harsh climate and shallow soil, tree growth is rare, and instead the tiny plants of the Alpine Tundra cling to the rocky soil. Perhaps we can locate a nice spot to stop and browse around a bit.
Arrive Cody, Wyoming early afternnoon.
Buffalo Bill Historical Center (5 large museums in one area) Buffalo Bill Historical Center
Night Stop-Cody, Wyoming Bestwestern Cody
Day Ten - Monday, September 15, 2008
Day In Cody, WY
Shopping, Revisit the Buffalo Bill Historical Center, Cody Trolly Tour, Day of Leisure.
Night Stop-Cody, Wyoming
Day Eleven - Tuesday, September 16, 2008
Cody-Depart with a Step-On Guide from Grubsteak Expeditions Grubsteaktours
Sunlight Valley via the Chief Joseph Scenic Highway, up the Clarksfork of the Yellowstone River, through Cooke
City, into Yellowstone National Park (America's first National Park) through the NE Entrance. We will travel through the Lamar Valley and then over the Dunraven Pass to Canyon and through the Hayden Valley to the Yellowstone Lake Hotel for the night.
We will have
opportunites daily to see flora and fauna. Our goal of course
is to take, if possible, the little byways and backroads so we can get
away from the ordinary routes and to instead get a realistic picture as
the National Park environment really exists. Heart Mountain dominates
the southeastern view as Chief Joseph Scenic Highway climbs
past vibrant red buttes. The paved road switchbacks along hairpin turns
and leads you into a remote basin area. Other parts of the byway offers
breathtaking views of the Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone River. Keep an
eye out for wildlife. This area boasts the largest herd of mountain
goats in Wyoming. Chief Joseph Scenic Highway is also known as Sunlight
Basin Road and comes from the 1940s when fur trappers noticed
that the area filled with light, but was so remote that the only thing
that could get into the valley throughout the year was sunlight.
The more popular name, the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway, is named after the
Native American chief of the Nez Perce tribe. Following
the Battle of the Big Hole in Idaho in 1877, Chief Joseph fled east
through Yellowstone. He and 1,000 members of his tribe ran from the US
Calvary, who was trying to force the tribe onto a reservation so that
white ranchers could have their lands. While crossing Yellowstone, the
Nez Perce briefly captured several tourists before going north up the
Clarks Fork River. The Nez Perce were trying to flee to Canada (an 1,800
mile trek), but surrendered after the six-day Battle of the Bear Paw in
northeastern Montana. The tribe was stopped only 30 miles from their
destination, the Canadian border.
In his speech of surrender, Chief Joseph expressed
dignity and defeat with his famous words, 'Hear me, my chiefs, I am
tired; my heart is sick and sad. From where the sun now stands, I will
fight no more forever.' The Nez Perce tribe was forced onto reservations
in Oklahoma and Washington despite promises to allow them back on their
lands. Yellowstone's Nez Perce Creek is named for this valiant attempt
at freedom.
The Chief Joseph Scenic Byway offers unparalleled views of Wyoming as
well as a unique history of the US. This famous road is also known for
its fascinating geological features as well as its abundant wildlife
around every turn.
Night Stop - Yellowstone Lake Hotel. Yellowstone Lake Hotel
Day Twelve - Wednesday, September 17, 2008
Yellowstone National Park
With the Grubsteak guide we will vist the South Loop of Yellowstone including Old Faithful Geyser, the geyser
basins, and have a local flora guide join us for the day as well if our grubsteak guide is not well versed with plants, and then return to the Lake Hotel for the night.
Old Faithful erupts more frequently than any of the other big geysers, although it is not the largest or most regular geyser in the park. Its average interval between eruptions is about 91 minutes, varying from 65 - 92 minutes. It was named for its consistent performance by members of the Washburn Expedition in 1870. Although its average interval has lengthened through the years (due to earthquakes and vandalism), Old Faithful is still as spectacular and predictable as it was a century ago.
One of these days will also be used for sightseeing and photography of the wildlife, hopefully, Bear, Moose, Wolf, etc.
Night Stop - Yellowstone Lake Hotel
Day Thirteen - Thursday, September 18, 2008
Yellowstone National Park
With the grubsteak guide visit the North Loop of Yellowstone NP including the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone,
Lower and Upper Falls, over Dunraven Pass to Tower Falls, then on to Mammoth Hot Springs (Park Headquarters),
and then south to the Norris Geyser Basin (home to the world's largest active geyser, Steamboat Geyser), then returning to the Lake Hotel. The currnet view of the Canyon is about 10,000 years old. Around 600,000 years ago huge volcanic eruptions emptied a large underground magma chamber. Overtime, erosion from wind, rain, earthquakes, and other natural forces created the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. Each day has built-in-time for wildlife sightings. The Bull Elk should be in rut and should be bugling.
Night Stop - Yellowstone Lake Hotel
Day Fourteen - Friday, September 19, 2008
Yellowstone National Park
With the grubsteak guide travel south to Teton National Park, and on to the town of Jackson, Wyoming, and spending
a few hours around the town square shopping, and then returning through Teton National Park to Lake Hotel for the night.
Night Stop - Yellowstone Lake Hotel
Day Fifteen - Saturday, September 20, 2008
Yellowstone National Park-Depart
Exit via West Yellowstone (with time to stop and shop).
Stop at Virginia City National Historic Landmark. Virginia City
Headwaters of the Missouri River. Probably not too much water running this time of year, but three rivers join to become one.
Lewis and Clark Caverns is near here as well, we can stop here if you wish (its about a 2 hour stop), but our plan is to pick up a step-on guide (perhaps a Native American one if possible) in Helena, Montana to travel with us to Browning, Montana.
Virginian City is a well preserved old west Victorian gold mining town. A nice place to stop and stretch your legs and stroll around, have a bit of lunch, and continue on to Helena.
Night Stop - Helena, Montana (State Capital) Park Plaza Hotel
Day Sixteen - Sunday, September 21, 2008
A day of rest and relaxation in Helena, Montana!
Tucked along the crooked path where Last Chance Stream once meandered, Helena is the town that gold built, an honor that no other modern Montana city can claim. While other gold camps boomed and dwindled into ghost towns, veins of yellow metal transformed remote Lat Chance Gulch into Montana’s golden capital. The “Queen City of the Rockies” lives up to its nickname.
Those who are interested may wish to go to Boulder Hot Springs (not included in pricing) for some therapeutic and relaxing Spa services in mineral laden pure geothermal waters. Others may wish to see a nearby Botanical Garden and Elkhorn Ghost Town, or perhaps just stroll around downtown Helena.
Night Stop - Helena, Montana
Day Seventeen - Monday, September 22, 2008
Depart Helena, Montana.
As the western side of Glacier National Park is already closed for the season for road repairs, we must depart Helena today and make our way to Glacier Park Lodge in East Glacier, Montana.
Instead of using the Interstate we will travel via Highway 287. We will just miss Tower Rock as we take the 287 exit for a more leisurely, back-roads view of things. Tower Rock is noted as the last Great Plains stop of Lewis & Clark. From here on, they entered the Rocky Mountains and Pacific Northwest Range. A guide will join us for most, if not all, of the trip from Helena to East Glacier to explain the history and development of the area. Camp Disappointment is located near Browning, Montana, and time permitting, we will stop here. It is so named because Lewis and Clark could not find proof that that a tributary of the Missouri River extended past 50 degrees N latitude, which would have expanded the Louisiana Purchase territory.
Night Stop – East Glacier, Montana
Day Eighteen - Tuesday, September 23, 2008
This is a special treat, and though a bit cool in the morning and evening, you will not soon forget your roundtrip ride to the top of Logan Pass on the Going-to-the-Sun Road in the famous Red Buses of Glacier National Park. Large glacial lakes, cedar forests, and alpine tundra are part of the landscape today. This will be about 3 hours and will leave by 9am sharp as we must have lunch and then make our way to Kalispell for the evening.
These
Red Buses are historic themselves!
Glacier National Park Red Bus Tours
Night Stop – Kalispell, Montana
Day Nineteen - Wednesday, September 24, 2008
Kalispell - Giant Cedars - Great Missoula Glacial Lake History
Some of these Western Red Cedars are over 400 years old and over 8ft in diameter and 175ft tall! It is such a lovely and relaxing setting with Ross Creek running through.
Did you know that great floods help shape the Pacific Northwest? As recent as 12,000 years ago, the valleys of western Montana were under 2,000 feet of water. The Cordilleran Ice Sheet dammed the Clark Fork River just as it entered Idaho. Finally, the water burst thru the dam and carved thru Idaho, Washington, and Oregon toward its way to the Pacific Ocean. Our step on guide can hopefully point out some damage from the flood and give an exciting description of the flood and its part in creating the Clombia River gorge.
With Step On Guide
Night Stop - Red Lion, Kalispell, Montana
Day Twenty - Thursday, September 25, 2008
Day of Rest and Relaxation in Kalispell, Montana. A great place!
Night Stop - Red Lion, Kalispell, Montana
Day Twenty One - Friday, September 26, 2008
Kalispell - Depart
Night Stop - Missoula, Montana Double Tree Edgewater Hotel
Adequate time to stroll around Downtown and Shop, and prepare to Depart
Day Twenty Two - Saturday, September 27, 2008
Depart from Missoula, Montana.
Price in USD $
$8,795 per person twin share
$1,990 Single Supplement
Booked So Far - 5 (updated December 26, 2008)
Need a few more! Let's Go!!
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